2016年10月6日星期四

【西藏旅游黑幕】速转:独家暗访布达拉宫报团一日游 告诉你套路有多深

独家暗访布达拉宫报团一日游 告诉你套路有多深

 2016-10-05 手册君 

在拉萨的旅游圈子,
流传着这样一句话:
布宫不是你想来,想来就能来。
而藏地手册团队想说
当我们体验到布宫一日游的套路之后
纯洁的我眼泪不禁流下来 555



 
布达拉宫,是绝大多数游客来西藏的必去景点,但也因为如此,成为一些人和机构眼中的生财渠道,而广大不明就里的游客,也成为砧板上的肥肉。


在拉萨的淡季10-5月,随时都是可以买到票的,淡季票价只有现在的一半:100元。


所以很多来藏地想去布宫的游览的游人,为了防止不必要的体力损耗和麻烦,通常会走两种途径:

第一,购买高价黄牛票,另外加价300-500不等。
第二,报团——市内一日游。

市内一日游中包含着布宫预约票,等于说不用你辛苦排队了,只要报团,当天凭借身份证旅行社就可以帮你拿到预约票,只是市内一日游中包含很多进店程序,还有很多不为人道的规则。

拉萨旅行社人员普遍有这样一个说法:布达拉宫每天发放2300张票,其中排队获取的散客票只有300-500张,其他的都是旅行社的团体票和当地政府机关的接待票,所以无论淡旺季,自己排队获取预约票必须依靠勤奋体力和运气!


网上预约成为摆设、凌晨排队希望渺茫,留给广大游客的路只有一条:“市内一日游”。

至于其中的流程如何,小编特地国庆10月在旅行社报团参加了次日的“市内一日游”,带大家去了解一下正真的市内一日游到底是怎样的?


手册君此次国庆十月“市内一日游”报团的费用一共是220。

旅行社的人承诺这220的费用包含:午餐,导游,预约票,门票,进店不强制购物,第二天早上会有司机来接。

晚上的通知

小编在旅行社交了100的定金开了收据,并留下了电话,静待司机电话通知。

晚上小编收到了导游的短信,短信内容如下:
旅行社说好的司机来接,原来并无司机接送,而是去指定地点集合。

套路第一步:卖高于市价三倍的银器
第一站:藏族人家(丹巴村)
抵达时间:8:30

早上8:00,小编到达指定地点,集合上车,十月的清晨天气不是很冷,日出的红晕将远方的天幕渲染,心情不错。


导游在车上讲解拉萨人文历史,并把游客的身份证收集起来,去办理预约票。

大巴车一路行驶,路边的景色不错,说第一站要去藏民家做客。


随着大巴车的行驶,路上的风景似曾相识,小编才发现,原来要去做客藏族人家座落在“丹巴村”,就在拉萨市西北角的哲蚌寺旁边。
 
游客走进藏族的院子

进入藏民家的客厅,朴实的藏式装饰,大家围成一圈坐下,很有气氛。

这时进来一位藏族姑娘,自称央金,首先说明了带大家来家里参观不是为了盈利,而是政府游说了5年,村里的老人都不同意,最后才勉强答应的,让游客谨言慎行,不要乱跑乱说,语气很严厉。


然后说在高原一定要注意身体,说内地人身体不好,一有感冒这些小毛病就要打针吃药,在藏地,他们很少去医院。

正说着,从头上拿下了一把小银梳,说藏族都用银梳蘸生姜水梳头,刮痧,所以身体很好。

央金邀请了一位中年人上来体验刮痧。

接着又从包里拿出一个银碗,说这是母亲从出生留给她的,可以吸附有毒的物质,给小孩吃饭很好,而且可以把盐和花椒炒热了放进纱布,用银碗扣在肚子上治疗湿寒,说学会了此法根本不用进医院,花那么多冤枉钱不如买一个银碗自己调理。

接着从正中央的桌子上把一块花布揭开,全部都是琳琅满目的银器,银梳,银碗,银手链,银戒指,银腰带,银项链--------


央金解说道:“这些都是政府拨下来的银子,都是真的,都是村里的老人和寺里面的喇嘛做的,有的银碗只剩下这几个了,工艺很复杂,在内地有钱也买不到,收到的钱都会捐到寺庙里面去做功德。”

然后让游客围上来参观,央金在桌子上准备好了记账功德本,笔,pos机,游客们欣赏把玩起来,央金记账和刷卡,买的人很多。

售价25元一克,而市面上成品银质饰品的价格为4-10元一克,而且是未掺假的价格。如果以这个价格来看,似乎并不太过份,只是希望游客买到的都是真的未掺假已经万幸。

记账本

小编估计了一下,此次所在的团银器共消费大概差不多后3万,保守估计利润应该在1.4-2万元。

买完后大家走到集合点,央金也出来了,但小编注意到似乎那里只是一个为游客而设的点,并非央金声称是她自己的家,显然这个人家只是一个未挂牌的购物店。

套路第二步:假天珠、高于市价6-10倍的手串
地点:郊外一处偏僻“藏文化馆”
抵达时间:11:00

大巴车驶入第二站,导游在车上从历史人文讲到天珠蜜蜡等藏地宝石。

下了车,一位年轻的汉族小伙儿接待的我们,为我们大概的解说了一下藏地宝石的分布情况。


文化馆的装修去颇为大气奢华,很难想到拉萨郊区还有这样的地方。



讲解员把我们邀请到一个安静的小教室,开始观看有关天珠的纪录片,然后简略描述了一下天珠的有关知识。



看完之后众人以为可以离去之时,讲解员让大家等等,紧接着把教室后面的推拉木门拉开,此时让人震惊的一幕发生了:

映入眼帘是一个装修金碧辉煌游人如织的购物店,喧闹嘈杂,设计者真是用心良苦,刚刚看片子的时候竟然什么都没有听到。

与刚刚安静看片氛围形成了鲜明对比。

讲解员说必须呆够2小时,让大家自行逛店。



柜台里卖的珠子都价格不菲。

小编对珠子略有了解,不论真假好坏,价格确实高的离谱,仍有人买,不懂的人最好理性消费。

廉价的天珠通货,价格高的离谱
还有菩提佛珠,配的简单的玛瑙,优化的绿松,假蜜蜡,一串不过100以内的成本,居然卖到600-10000,仍有人买,无法理解。


配置廉价的佛珠,价格虚高

小编再次提醒,不懂珠子,不懂文玩,一定要理性消费,或者问问身边懂的人。

小编发现,这里居然还有开辟的专门开光的包间,一个喇嘛坐在里面,收费100-5000不等,不买东西的人禁止入内。
开光的喇嘛
这里装修极尽奢华,挂着很多唐卡壁画,佛音不断,柜子里都是与价格不符的商品。

这里禁止拍照,有很多保安。

他们的解释是“佛缘圣品,禁止拍照”,可不解的是,打着佛教的旗号进行商业行为,当行为和解释形成矛盾,极力掩盖之时,又有什么意义,佛祖可会怪罪?

时间到了,大家有些疲惫,终于坐上大巴,进入下一站。


套路三  卖藏药 高于市价2-8倍
地点:藏医药文化博览中心
抵达时间:13:15

到达了藏医药博览中心,一位胖胖的援藏东北大哥担当讲解员。


介绍了一些藏药及其功效,并说自己的母亲中风后因为服藏药,半年便康复了。


接着将大家邀请到二楼的教室,讲解了一点中医常识,接着可以去看免费藏医药专家门诊,开出方抓药。

手册君目测有一半的游客都买了藏药,其中购买最多的单品是藏红花,售价38-200元不等。事后手册君咨询了八廓街多家商户,比较好的品相藏红花在25元一克,约相当于这所购物店的50%-15%不等。

琳琅满目的藏药。



套路三:不给时间吃午饭  直接推销牛肉干
地点:拉萨市郊山沟里某特产店
抵达时间:15:00

坐在车上,已经中午两点多了,导游没有提午餐的事,而是说来到当地一定要品尝一下本地美食,到了下一站,每个人最好象征性买一点特产。

此刻大家从早上8点折腾到现在,还没有吃午饭,还没有走进布宫。

随后车子将游客又带往上一站约5公里外的郊区山沟里,这家店主卖牛肉干等特产,一个女讲解员讲解拉萨特产。


各种牛肉干非常丰富,比如风干牛肉,市价140元一斤,这里卖价190左右。袋装湿牛肉干,市价150一斤,这里售价200元一斤,还算不上过分,属于四个购物店里价格不太离谱的一家。

手册君目测,也是约一半的游客买了牛肉干,但数量都不多。

第五站:布达拉宫
抵达时间:15:00

从早上7时出门集合,到下午15时,终于到了最终的目的地:布达拉宫。

此时大家已经不吃不喝持续8个小时,走了四个不同的购物店,大家都很疲惫了,大巴车上不时传来鼾声。

导游解释,到了布宫门前会把预约票和身份证发给大家,大家请准时按时间进入布宫,并说,因为10元的餐费大家是在吃不好,所以建议自己去吃,或者买点零食带上去,布宫顶上也有零食卖,关于布宫的解说,则让我们去蹭别人的导游就好。

于是导游把十元的餐费退了回来,并把每个人100元的押金里的80退了回来。

相当于旅行社只收了每人10元的车费,看来疏导流量的利益不可小觑。

下了车,每个人在布宫门口领到了预约票和身份证,大巴车上的导游匆匆离去。

一位匿名的旅行社司机对手册君透露,一般购物店会按人头或整车给司机和导游导流费,一般比如银器店,一般大巴车1500一车,小车1000元一车。另外会根据游客消费额多少,给予司机和导游一定比例的回扣。

这位司机同时透露,也有另外一种常见的算法,是按人头返点,每带一个客人进入购物店,店方会给司机和导游30元每人的人头费,因此司机和导游一般都会竭力说服客人“去店里转转,买不买都可以。”

小编看看预约票上的时间15:20,此时已经下午三点多了,再不进去,可能会错过排票的时间,于是顾不上买水和吃的,赶紧跟随人流走进布宫。

小编的预约票
进入布宫是爬山的开始,爬山要经过大大小小5重门。

前三重门是排队检查预约票和身份证,所以预约票一定要保存好哦。


终于进入布宫,但手册君已经被旅行社和商家们搞的疲惫不看,已然快没有了欣赏圣殿的心情,只有打起精神、饿着肚子继续走。

毕竟,这张入场券来的真不容易啊!

第四重是凭预约票和身份证购买200元的门票。

拥挤的购票处

第五重就是拿着门票直接进入布宫,经过最后一道门票检查。

重重叠叠的石板路,很耗费体力,一定做好防晒和预防高反的准备。


进入布宫后因为不准拍照,小编尊重当地的宗教信仰,就不拍照啦。

游览布宫是不走回头路的,由于人流量大,你会被人流推着前进,楼梯较多且陡,光线暗,一定要注意人身安全。

大概40分钟布宫游览完后出来,可以在山顶看到拉萨城全貌以及布宫后的龙王潭。

顺着石板山路而下,一路欣赏着美景,最后从布宫的后门而出,便到了龙王潭公园,这里的秋色也甚是动人。


布宫后门,位于龙王潭公园里面

龙王潭秋色

小编于5:40抵达龙王潭公园,坑爹的市内一日游终于结束,又饿又累的小编已经感觉走不动了,两个字:解脱。



此时一阵微风拂过,龙王潭的黄叶叶缤纷而落,湖水静静的,倒映着蓝天秋色,此刻,一切的疲惫和套路引起的不愉快暂时抛之脑后,

手册君想,这么美好的旅途,为什么要搞的这么复杂,或许没有门票没有套路的藏地,才是最平和美好的------但是,似乎已经回不去了。

幕后套路:
司机导游为何喜欢带游客进购物店

一位匿名的旅行社司机对手册君透露,一般购物店会按人头或整车给司机和导游导流费,一般比如银器店,一般大巴车1500一车,小车1000元一车。另外会根据游客消费额多少,给予司机和导游一定比例的回扣。

这位司机同时透露,也有另外一种常见的算法,是按人头返点,每带一个客人进入购物店,店方会给司机和导游30元每人的人头费,因此司机和导游一般都会竭力说服客人“去店里转转,买不买都可以。”

手册后记:

市内一日游,或可称为进店一日游,从早上8:00整装待发的好心情到耗下午3点多才拿到布宫预约票,可谓费心费神。

拿到预约票,为了不错过买票时间,中午饭也顾不上吃,又要爬山,排队,通过大大小小5个关卡才可以顺利进入布宫,此时体力已经耗尽,似乎也没什么心情欣赏布宫的佛宝了,只求赶快看完下山休息吃饭。

这背后有非常复杂的原因,但归根到底无非是票源的紧缺,同为旅游热门地点的大昭寺全年都不用紧张到这样的程度,但布达拉宫却每天只放出少数数百张票给民众,助长了旅行社的趁机盘剥,而少数有特权和有关系的人则可以轻易走后门进布宫,让人费解。

长此以往,伤害的是西藏在国人中的形象。


2016年10月5日星期三

“逃遁者”——茨仁夏加解读万玛才旦电影《塔洛》

西德尼玛和杨秀措

高峰净土特邀藏人学者茨仁夏加 (Tsering Shakya),评论万玛才旦的最新电影《塔洛》。


去年,高峰净土发表了一些关于《塔洛》上映预期效果的译文。《塔洛》于2015年威尼斯电影节进行了国际首映,自那时起便接踵不断地赢得世界各地的电影节奖项。

“逃遁者”-茨仁夏加解读万玛才旦电影《塔洛》


万玛才旦的新电影《塔洛》回归了他早期的主题:生活在中国瞩目的经济崛起之边缘的人们。电影植根于日常生活,讲述了主角塔洛的人生际遇。通常父母给孩子起“塔洛”这个名字,是希望他将会是他们最后一个孩子,可算是除了避孕之外的一种祈愿的方式;它同时也可以被解读为“终结”。然而,万玛才旦将其藏文名字拼写为thar lo,代替常用的mthar,因而赋予了“塔洛”新的寓意:逃遁者。某种意义上,这是一个很恰当的名字,因为主角一直过着与世隔绝的生活,设法逃避被登入在身份证系统里。不论导演是否有意使用这个名字来暗喻着什么,这部电影的确讲述了塔洛所熟知、所生活的世界的终结。塔洛本人更喜欢众人给他的昵称-马尾辫,它准确地反映了他的外貌特征,同时也是故事的核心。
这部电影本质上是一项人物研究。塔洛这个角色是由著名的藏人喜剧作家演员西德尼玛扮演,然而,正如同才旦早期电影的方式,其他的角色都是启用非专业演员,以展现真实、自然的场景。西德尼玛对于主人公的表现,连同他独特的肢体特征与气质,坚实地烘托出电影的主题:被诱惑的天真,与被移植入迥异环境的人。当塔洛身处全新的环境时,流露出一种细微却明显的不自在,刻意避免他在现代化社会中給人的乡巴佬的刻板印象,同时引出观众感同身受的理解与同情。
电影以塔洛背诵“为人民服务”的情节为始,这是毛泽东于1944年为缅怀他忠诚的战士张思德所作的文章。塔洛站在当地警察局里,他的听众是镇里的派出所长。我们看到,这篇演讲使塔洛赋予自己的人生更重的涵义,并得出结论:由于接受的教育有限,他唯一能够服务人民的途径是继续老本行,即为其他村民放羊。对于他,一个没有任何家庭帮助支持的孤儿来说,放羊的意义不止是生存方式而已,这同时也是服务社区的方式,因为这些羊并不都属于他。观众也看到,塔洛对于他的羊群有着非常细致的了解,并精勤地照料着它们;他走在镇上会把孤儿羊羔装在随身携带的布包里,无论何时当它感到口渴,他会用一个婴儿奶瓶喂它。
剧本改编自导演于2013年所写的短片小说(刊登在《青海湖》文学杂志)。在那篇小说里,其他角色的作用是讲述塔洛的独居生活;在电影中,塔洛仍然保持这焦点为全剧每一幕的中心。电影黑白的拍摄手法营造了一种预示性的氛围,好像每个场景都是一个事件的照片纪实。色彩的缺失带来了对于地貌灰暗性的尖锐聚焦;在那片被经济发展所污染的藏地高原,聚居着一群既未被完全城市化又不再保留纯粹乡村生活的人们。我们可以感受到一种临近边缘的空间,等待着它的“发展”。
在这样全然、单调的黑白单色的动态摄影中,塔洛那困惑和无措的神情回忆起一份档案文件般,记录了他原本的世界,正蜕掉它的天真,被以他无法完全理解的方式入侵着的过程;这侵犯所带来的沉重现实将它冲击得摇摇欲坠,正在他面前脱落、坍塌;而他却对这一切浑然不觉。塔洛在山里的牧营中过着孤独的生活,离周边的村庄很远,离那个他鲜有涉足的小镇也很远。身边所发生的迅疾的变化是那样陌生,他对杨秀措扮演的女主人公杨措说,他从未见过一个藏人女孩吸烟,还剪了短发。短发、吸烟、夜店…尽管杨措具有了都市的堕落、诱惑、放荡这一特定模式的典型特征,万玛才旦并没有让这个角色变成一个罪恶的放大或代言人。
电影围绕塔洛对于自我及外部世界的发掘与认知展开。塔洛独立的存在被行政部门注意到,于是他发现自己被召到当地派出所去办一个新的身份证,正如每个公民所必需的一样。他不明白为什么他需要身份证,并问这个东西是做什么用。派出所长解释道,“这是为了让他人能够认得你是谁。”塔洛很困惑,“我知道我是谁。这难道不足够吗?”
当塔洛按照要求前往镇里的街道拍身份证照片时,由于蓬乱邋遢的外表,他又被支去理发店。在那里他遇到了杨措。杨措告诉塔洛,她渴望变得富有、去旅行,渴望一个留着马尾辫的粗旷男人出现,带着她离开,去过更好的生活。当塔洛被杨措坚持带去了卡拉OK吧之后,他回到派出所,告诉所长说:他觉得,可是不确定,他刚刚遇到了一个“坏”人。“你是怎么看出来一个人坏不坏的?”他问所长。正如行政部门开始注意并了解塔洛这个人一样,塔洛本人也开始探索这个许久以来他成功远离的世界。这并不是一个共同分享的,或者基于一种了解意愿的过程,而好比一种侵入、一项注册,是一个没有什么被发现后还能够重新隐藏于视野之外的世界。
这种埋于吸引力与诱惑力的冲突是万玛才旦电影及短篇小说的一贯主题。从这个角度来说,他的电影是迄今为止对于中国藏区正面临的发展所作出的最好注解之一。他的电影没有国际媒体的头条,脱离了官方媒体以及旅游业所制作的梦幻风景片,取而代之的是对于个体在转变及入侵中的挣扎、对于他们鲜活的日常体验的探究。乡村穷人和处在现代发展风口的生活方式,是万玛才旦最熟知的,也是他最擅长驾驭的主题。塔洛在探索中无法弥补地失去了隔离的生活与天真单纯,一如他外表的转变,在我们面前呈现出一个全新的、无法违逆的现实世界;一个让他终于了知,没有身份证会使他不再确定自己是谁的现实世界。电影并未以乐观的角度来表现处在中国经济崛起边缘的平民生活,它既没有给出令人愉快的解决方案,也不是一个关于政治动荡的叙事片;而是记录了一种隐藏的、内在的动荡,它重构着那些挣扎于社会经济变革冲击的,流离者的生活。

2016年10月4日星期二

The Cultural Revolution in Tibet: A Photographic Record

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Tsering Woeser’s father, an officer in the People’s Liberation Army in Lhasa when the Cultural Revolution broke out in 1966, photographed many public attacks on Tibet’s old ruling class and religious leaders. Here, a Buddhist nun wears a sign labeling her as a counterrevolutionary. CreditTsering Dorje
In 1999, the Tibetan writer Tsering Woeser came across Wang Lixiong’s book “Sky Burial: The Fate of Tibet.” On finishing it, she sent Mr. Wang photographs taken by her father, who was with the People’s Liberation Army when it entered Tibet in the 1950s and documented the early years of the Cultural Revolution in Lhasa in the 1960s. Mr. Wang wrote back, saying, “It’s not for me, as a non-Tibetan, to use these photos to reveal history. That task can only be yours.”
Ms. Woeser began tracking down and interviewing people who appeared in the photos. This resulted in two books published by Locus in Taiwan in 2006: “Forbidden Memory: Tibet During the Cultural Revolution,” based on her father’s photographs, and “Tibet Remembered,” an oral history narrated by 23 people who appear in them. Meanwhile, Ms. Woeser had begun taking her own photos, using her father’s camera, of the places he photographed. Many were included in a new edition of “Forbidden Memory,” published this year on the 50th anniversary of the start theCultural Revolution.
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Tsering Dorje standing before the Potala Palace in Lhasa in 1969, in a photograph provided by his daughter, Tsering Woeser.
Ms. Woeser was born in Lhasa in 1966 to a Tibetan mother and her father, Tsering Dorje, who was half Tibetan and half Han, the dominant ethnicity in China. But in 1970, her father, who had served as deputy commander of the Lhasa military district, was transferred to Sichuan Province. It wasn’t until 1990 that Ms. Woeser returned to Lhasa, where she became editor of the journal “Tibetan Literature.” In 2003, she published “Notes on Tibet,” a collection of essays and short stories that was soon banned by the Chinese government. She is now a freelance writer and poet based in Beijing with Mr. Wang, whom she married in 2004. In an interview, she discussed what she learned from her father’s photographs of Tibet’s experience of the Cultural Revolution.
How did your father manage to take these photos?
In 1950, Mao Zedong ordered the People’s Liberation Army into Tibet, and on the way it passed through my father’s hometown, Derge, which is in the present-day Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan. At the time my father, who was only 13, was sent away by his Han father to enlist in the P.L.A. His mother was a local Tibetan. During the Cultural Revolution, my father served as an officer in the political department of the Tibet Military District. I suppose he was able to take photos because of his privileges as a P.L.A. officer.
It’s curious, however, that for all the photos that my father took, he was able to keep the photos and negatives. This certainly could not have happened if the army had assigned him to take the photos. This indicates that my father’s activity was not commissioned by the military.
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On Aug. 24, 1966, in Lhasa, Buddhist scriptures were burned as part of the campaign against the “Four Olds” — old customs, old culture, old habits, old ideas. CreditTsering Dorje
Very few people had cameras then, and even fewer had the chance to take photos of public events. There were several media agencies active in Tibet then. They produced lots of documentaries, photos and reports. And yet in the newspapers and posters from then you can’t find any photos of ruined temples or “struggle sessions” against “counterrevolutionary monsters and demons.” I’ve looked at all the issues of Tibet Daily from 1966 to 1970 but can find no such photos.
What do your father’s photos show?
Mostly mass meetings and “incidents.” By mass meetings I mean large-scale gatherings such as the celebration by tens of thousands of Chairman Mao’s launching of the Cultural Revolution. Incidents include the destruction of temples and struggles against “monsters and demons.” The photos contain many identifiable figures including the Communist leaders of Tibet, the founder of the Tibetan Red Guards, individual Red Guards, as well as nobles, clergy and officials of the old Tibet society who were targeted in “struggle sessions.” In my investigations most of my efforts were focused on these people, because it’s through them that the photos have their greatest value. Over six years, I interviewed about 70 people in the photos.
How do your photographs and your father’s, taken in the same locations, differ?
In 1966 and 1967, my father took photos of mass meetings and rallies of Red Guards and the P.L.A. in front of the Potala Palace. In 2012, when I went to the same place to take photos, two self-immolations by Tibetans had taken place in Lhasa that May. As a result, the government tightened its policy of ethnic segregation and took more security measures against Tibetans, especially those from outside Lhasa. The measures were first implemented in March 2008, when protests broke out across the Tibetan region, and became more severe in 2012. As I took my photos, I noticed a curious phenomenon: the palace square was filled with men in black. They had umbrellas on their backs, which they would use to block people from taking pictures if an incident broke out. They lined up in rows and monitored the people passing by. They prohibited anyone from sitting in the square.
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Tsering Woeser, with her father’s camera, in Lhasa in 2013. CreditPazu Kong
Another example: In 2014, I was standing where my father had taken photos in front of the Jokhang Temple. What did he see back then? Red Guards trying to hang Chairman Mao’s portrait on the roof of the temple, where the Chinese flag was also planted. Though I didn’t see any Mao portraits there, the flag was waving in the same place. Also, there were quite a few believers kneeling and praying, as well as a crowd of tourists fascinated by their actions. On the roof of a house diagonally across from the temple there were sharpshooters from the armed police. Ever since 2008, sharpshooters have been deployed on the roofs of buildings around the temple.
Comparing today with the Cultural Revolution, there were no believers kneeling back then, and the temple was ruined, while today the temple offers a bustling scene where believers may freely worship. But these are only superficial differences. Religious worship is still strictly controlled. Furthermore, there is now commercialized tourism, with gawking tourists who treat Tibetans like exotic decorations and Lhasa as a theme park.
Who was the founder of the Lhasa Red Guards?
Tao Changsong, born in Yangzhou, Jiangsu Province. In 1960, he graduated from East China Normal University and volunteered to move to Tibet, where he became a teacher of Chinese at Lhasa Middle School. During the Cultural Revolution he was the main force behind the creation of the Lhasa Red Guards, as well as commander of the Lhasa Revolutionary Rebels Headquarters. When the Revolutionary Committee of the Tibet Autonomous Region was formed, he became its deputy director, a position equivalent to vice chairman of the Tibet Autonomous Region today. He also went to Beijing many times and met with Zhou Enlai, Jiang Qing and other key members of the Central Revolutionary Committee. In 2001, I interviewed him twice. I didn’t show him my father’s photos, assuming he might not tell me the story if he saw them, since he appears in one. It shows him at the Dalai Lama’s summer palace, the Norbulingka, leading a team of Red Guards hanging up a poster on which is written “People’s Park.”
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A public rally in Lhasa to force “monsters and demons” to confess their failings. CreditTsering Dorje
There were two “rebel factions” in Lhasa during the Cultural Revolution. One was the Revolutionary Rebels Headquarters. The other was the Great Alliance of Proletarian Revolutionaries Command, or Great Alliance Command for short. The two fought each other for power. In the later period of the Cultural Revolution, the Headquarters faction lost ground, while the other faction achieved total control, and retained it even after the Cultural Revolution [which ended in 1976]. Headquarters members were purged from the party. Tao Changsong was investigated on suspicion of belonging to the “three types of people” — “people who followed the Lin Biao-Jiang Qing counterrevolutionary faction,” “people with a strong factionalist bent” and “people who engaged in looting and robbery.” After the mid-1980s, he worked at the Tibetan Academy of Social Sciences and served as assistant editor of the journal “Tibet Studies” and as deputy director of the Modern Tibetan Research Institute. Now he’s retired and lives in Chengdu and Lhasa, where he is in good standing with the government.
Mr. Tao is a lively talker with a sharp memory. He also showed his cautious side when he began having difficulty answering my questions about the Red Guards’ campaign against the “Four Olds” at the Jokhang Temple. The statement in his account that left the deepest impression on me concerned the P.L.A.’s crackdown on “second rebels” [Tibetans who revolted in 1969]. He said: “The Tibetans are too simple-minded. If you execute them they say, ‘Thank you.’ If you give them 200 renminbi they also say, ‘Thank you.’ ”
Tibet was an exception to the general practice of purging the “three types of people” after the Cultural Revolution. In Tibet there were few purges of that kind. When Hu Yaobang came to Lhasa in 1980, he put an end to the purging of the “three types.” Why? Because there were many Tibetans among them. Hu thought if you purged them, the party wouldn’t be able to find reliable agents among local Tibetans. So the party couldn’t purge them. And some of them not only were shielded from purges but even received promotions. As a result, the people who rose in power during the Cultural Revolution still dominate Tibet, whether Tibetan or Han.
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Two Red Guards in Lhasa in 1966. CreditTsering Dorje
Tell us about the people in the photographs who were victims of the struggle sessions.
There were about 40 of them. They belonged to a variety of professions in the old Tibet: monks, officials, merchants, physicians, officers, estate overlords and so on. The settings included struggle sessions at mass assemblies, in the streets and at local neighborhood committees that methodically conducted their sessions by turns. The time frame was from August to September 1966. After that, the division between the factions led each to conduct its own separate struggle sessions. The people attacked in these sessions were incorporated into the “monsters and demons” unit, where they were ordered to attend long-term labor and study sessions at their assigned neighborhood committee.
What’s most interesting about these victims is that most were members of the upper class whom the Communist Party from the 1950s to the eve of the Cultural Revolution had designated as “targets to be won over.” And since they did not follow the Dalai Lama and flee the country during the 1959 uprising, the party rewarded them with many privileges. In other words, they were partners of the party. One of them, a monk, even served as an informant for the military.
But after the Cultural Revolution began they were labeled “monsters and demons” and suffered humiliating attacks. In the end they were overtaken by madness, illness and death. Some died during the Cultural Revolution, others afterward. Most of the victims died. Of the few who survived, some went abroad. Some, however, remained in Tibet, where they took up the party’s offer and joined the system to regain their high status. Today these people are found in the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference, the National People’s Congress and the Buddhist Association, where they fulfill ceremonial functions needed by the party.
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A National Day celebration on Oct. 1, 1966, in Lhasa marking the anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China. CreditTsering Dorje
Given the fate of most of the victims, the people I interviewed were mostly their relatives, or in some cases the disciples of victimized monks. They told me so many stories.
Such as?
There was the Lhasa nobleman Sampho Tsewang Rinzin, from one of the most renowned noble families in Tibet. Sampho began working with the party in the 1950s and benefited from that. But he was cruelly struggled against during the Cultural Revolution, as you can see in the photos. The Red Guards who were beating him made him wear the uniform of a senior minister in the Tibetan government, which as much as it made him look splendid, brought him so much humiliation and stripped him of all dignity, so that in the end he was sobbing in front of everyone. He died soon after this.
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Then there was the “female living Buddha” — an erroneous term; we call them rinpoche — Samding Dorje Phagmo Dechen Chodron. Historically there have been very few female living Buddhas in Tibet. She was the most famous. In 1959 she followed the Dalai Lama and escaped to India. But she was persuaded by party cadres to return to Tibet and was held up as a patriot who had “resolved to shun the darkness and embrace the light.” She even met with Mao. After the Cultural Revolution started she was labeled a “monster and demon” and humiliated at struggle sessions.
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Ngawang Gelek, a member of the Little Red Guards, which replaced the Young Pioneers children’s organization during the Cultural Revolution, at a rally in Lhasa. He later became a militia commander and eventually a devout Buddhist. CreditTsering Dorje
In the photo where she is shown being beaten, she was only 24. She was weak then, because she had recently given birth to her third child. Her husband was the son of the great Lhasa nobleman Kashopa. The couple eventually divorced. It was her ex-husband who told me about her experiences as well as those of her parents after I showed him the photos.
Today, Dorje Phagmo is vice chairwoman of the Tibetan Autonomous Region and a member of the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference Standing Committee. She often appears on television attending various conferences.
Did you interview the Red Guards in the photos?
In one of my father’s photos there is a female activist, a quite vicious one during the Cultural Revolution. She once led a team to ransack a house where she not only seized the owner’s property but set fire to manuscripts bequeathed to the owner by the great Tibetan scholar Gendun Choephel. A Tibetan scholar called this a major crime against Tibetan history and culture. Later this woman became party secretary at the Wabaling neighborhood committee. When I found her there, she looked quite insignificant. As soon as I brought up the Cultural Revolution, her facial expression immediately changed. She refused to give an interview or let me take her photo.
There was also a former monk I interviewed who had smashed Buddhist stupas and burned scriptures during the Cultural Revolution. Afterward, he volunteered to be a janitor at the Jokhang Temple and worked there for 17 years. He told me: “If it weren’t for the Cultural Revolution, I think I would have lived my entire life as a good monk. I would have worn monk’s robes. The temples would still be there. Inside the temples I would have devotedly read scriptures. But the Cultural Revolution came. The robes could no longer be worn. Though I have never looked for a woman or abandoned monastic life, I am not fit to wear the robes again. This is the most painful thing in my life.”